Tim Byres Rocked us at Stephan Pyles

My partner in crime, wife Carol, and I had the opportunity to experience Stephan Pyles the Saturday of Labor Day weekend. We went to see Wayne Brady perform as part of the DSO’s Pops Series at the Myerson. On the way there we were having the usual dining discussion. Where do you want to eat? I don’t know where do you want to eat? I decided last time. OK name three places… do you have this discussion every single time you go out with your wife?

Then it hit me! Stephan Pyles is just down the street. We can go there late, do the tapas bar thing, a few small plates and go home. Our reservation was at 9:45 and we arrived on time. (Sorry Wayne, we snuck out a little early.)

We were greeted by the ever so smooth Lon Goodwin who showed us to a lovely table with a view of the kitchen. It’s impressive when everyone, from the hostess to the back waiter, greets you as "chef". My good friend Tim Byres, Executive Chef, approached the table and sat down for a quick visit. After discussing the pros and cons, mostly pros, of restaurant week, Tim asked us what we were up for. I knew it was late and I didn’t want him to put in hours 12-14 on our account. It’s not like eating off the menu is a problem! Mr. Byres rose and said, "Let me put a few things together for you." And boy did he!

First course

Chilled Goat Buttermilk Soup, Basil - Scented Rock Shrimp, Cucumber, Roasted Peppers, Chili Oil and Jicama

"This was one of the finest chilled soups I’ve ever been served. It worked on every level. Creamy, tart buttermilk spun with earthy cucumber, perfectly cooked shrimp, smoky peppers and crunchy jicama garnished with a paper thin slice of cucumber…greatness!"

Second Course

Wood Fired Oysters with 3 Curries - Yellow, Green and Masala

"The gulf oysters were just barely warmed, their shells resting on mixed peppercorns on a long thin plate. Each curry embellishing its bi-valve’s briny essence ever so elegantly. Masala - aromatic and peppery. Green -  heady with chili, basil and fish sauce. Yellow -  replete with turmeric, lime and cumin."

Third Course

Quatro Ceviche Spoons - Lobster, Salmon, Sea Bass & Scallop

"Beautiful presentation of four spoons on a plate with indention’s for each, all in white. The lobster was bathed in tart/sweet mango and basil.  Thin strips of salmon piqued with capers and olives. Avocado and tomatillo married perfectly with the rich sea bass. Scallops relished their dunking in a vinaigrette of aji mirasol, a mild Peruvian yellow pepper with a distinctive fruity flavor, orange and golden tomatoes. Thank God for Stephan’s travels to South America!"

Fourth Course

Wild Baby and Micro Arugula, Celery, Parmesan and Lemon Vinaigrette

" Perfect timing for this simple but elegant salad. Spicy, a little bitter (in a good arugula way), salty, crunchy and all served up in a killer chilled bowl with a wide rim and a hockey puck sized  indention in the center holding the creation. Lemon and arugula are really good friends."

Fifth Course

Masa Harina Tempura Soft Shell Crab, Guajillo and Black Bean Vinaigrette, Pickled Vegetables

"This was an awesome use of masa harina as a breading. It was light and very crunchy giving an almost lacquered  look to the crab. There was a long schmear of guajillo paste and another of the emulsified black bean vinaigrette. I was using the 1/2 crab like a biscuit, dragging it through the sauces. The condition of this plate was a dishwashers dream! By the way, three cheers for the backbone of any good restaurant, the dishwasher."

Intermezzo

Pineapple Sorbet

"Excuse me Tim, my tongue is drunk on New Millennium Southwestern Cuisine appetizers, could I have my palate resuscitated please? This tangy and not to sweet sorbet did the trick. The kicker was an impeccable garnish of an almost see - through thin slice of roasted pineapple."

Main Courses (From the menu)

TB’s “Reconstructed” Barbecued Beef Short Rib with Horseradish-Potato Gratin and Curried Artichokes

"If you ever went to Standard, Tim’s former haunt in Deep Ellum and later Uptown, you would recognize this signature creation of basically short rib butter with classic accompaniments.  He has taken that dish and given it a touch of Southwestern panache with the sauce. It’s the preparation and presentation of the short ribs that make this dish spectacular! Tin braises the ribs, shreds the meat off the bone and then presses the meat into a hotel pan where it is cut into little perfectly squared paves or bricks.  These are then seared on all sides to order and placed on a rib bone that has been cleaned and baked a gleaming white. This creates a crispy outside that encases a perfectly tender, rich and flavorful beef treat! Short rib lovers must try this dish. I’ll put it up against any other SR composition in town."

Wild King Salmon with Stewed Tomato Fumet, Mussels and Barbecued Baby Corn

"This was a jubilation  as well with all the components melding into farmony, that’s fork harmony. The tomato fumet was rich and acidic making a perfect ramp for the salmon and mussels. We sopped the remaining juices, impervious to glances from any potential Miss Manners types, with the light potato focaccia supplied by our efficient back waiter."

Desserts (From the menu)

Rhubarb and Marcona Almond Rice Pudding Bastilla
with Strawberry Bubble Pearl and Mandarinquat Ice Cream

Organic Shokenag German Chocolate Pot au Crème

Pistachio Crusted Lemon Curd with Blackberry Meringue

Coffee Creme Brulee

"Each offering was impeccable, perfect in size and construction as it occupied its  territory on the 1/4 divided square plate.  I must say the rhubarb rice pudding was my favorite. I’m usually not a big fan of rice pudding or bubble pearls but this was really interesting. Not overly sweet, the tart ice cream (I’m assuming a combination of mandarin orange and kumquats) really balanced this dish. The bubble pearls added a desirable toothiness and the Marcona almonds a satisfying crunch."

Overall this was a near flawless meal. Everything at Stephan Pyles seems to be well thought out and first class, from the management and waitstaff to the bathrooms. I was really fond of the china, incredibly stylish, ergonomic and diverse. I even received a call a few days later asking about my experience and thanking me for my patronage. Go see Tim, eat and enjoy!